Echoes Of The Shore: The White Man’s Graveyard

There’s a quiet patch of land in Twon-Brass, Bayelsa State, Nigeria that doesn’t get much attention, but it should!. Locals call it The White Man’s Graveyard, and if the name sounds eerie, that’s because the story behind it is just as haunting.

It’s not your typical tourist site. There are no massive statues or flashy signs. Just old, weathered gravestones tucked between palm trees, carrying names that once belonged to British colonial officers. But those stones? They whisper volumes.

Why “White Man’s Graveyard”?

Back in the 19th century, West Africa had a rough reputation among Europeans. They called it “The White Man’s Grave” because so many colonial officers, traders, and missionaries died shortly after arriving—mostly from diseases like malaria, which they had no immunity to.

Twon-Brass, located along the coast of the Niger Delta, became one of those deadly zones. The graveyard there is believed to hold the remains of British men who died while serving the Royal Niger Company or in the aftermath of one major turning point in local history: The Nembe-British War of 1895.

So, What Really Happened in 1895?

Here’s where it gets intense.

By the late 1800s, the Royal Niger Company had basically taken over trade in the Niger Delta. They imposed harsh policies, blocked traditional markets, and forced local communities into unfair trade deals. One of the hardest hit was the Nembe Kingdom, ruled by King Koko Mingi VIII.

King Koko Mingi VIII

Fed up and determined to fight back, King Koko led an audacious attack on the company’s headquarters in Akassa. Imagine dozens of war canoes sneaking through the creeks at dawn. It was bold, unexpected, and deadly. The British eventually retaliated, destroying Nembe villages and reasserting control. But the conflict caused significant British casualties, some of whom ended up buried in Twon-Brass.

What’s the Graveyard Like Today?

Peaceful. Quiet. Thought-provoking.

When you walk into the graveyard, there’s no grand entrance or polished plaques. Just headstones, many still standing, marked with names of men who probably thought they were here to “civilize” a land—only to be humbled by its climate, politics, and people.

In 2018, even the British High Commissioner to Nigeria, Paul Arkwright, visited the site to pay respects. That visit sparked renewed interest in preserving it as a heritage site, according to TSB News.

But even without government fanfare, the site holds weight. It’s not just about the British men buried there. It’s about the larger story of resistance, colonization, and the resilience of the Ijaw people who refused to be silenced.

Why It Matters Today

History isn’t always found in museums or textbooks. Sometimes, it lives in quiet corners of coastal towns—like this graveyard in Twon-Brass. It’s a reminder of how much was lost and fought for during Nigeria’s colonial period, and how even graves can tell stories of resistance.

It also challenges us to rethink the narratives we often hear. While these graves mark British loss, they exist because local leaders like King Koko stood up against exploitation. That’s the real story here.

Curious to Explore More?

If you’re the kind of person who loves uncovering hidden history, this is just one piece of Bayelsa’s layered past. From the Slave Tunnel in Akassa to the proposed Oloibiri Oil Museum, there’s a lot waiting to be explored!!!

Written by Gracelyn Jones

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